When we got to the car park it was packed but it turned out that these were all walkers and we had the crag to ourselves for most of the day. We started off with The Fang, a classic easy VS. I have to say that I wouldn't like to be doing it when breaking in to the grade as the first 10 metres or so are pretty hollow and you have to be careful with gear, then you run it out for quite a way until you get good gear. Good climbing though.
None of us felt up to leading Bloodhound (bold E2) which is one of the best slab climbs around, so we top roped it. Next up was Hernia, a steep crackline. It used to be HVS but was upgraded to E1 in the latest guide. There's only one hard move though the crux of the VS that it joins near the top felt just as hard.
Mike on the crux of Hernia - E1 5b |
Mike and Steve wanted to play on Castration Crack, one of the classic E3s of the crag. I'd done it a few times in the past so just chilled (literally) and watched them. The lower half is well protected but once past the crux it's a dirty slab -it was likely that this was the first ascent of the year.
I've still plenty to do here so will have to come back again.
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